Kyserike Kraftsman

After completing all the dados on the tablesaw yesterday I did a dry fit and clamp of the carcase. Everything looked good, but I decided it was too late to start the glue-up so that would have to wait for the next day.

Tonight I did the finally check for square, dismantled the dry fit and started the glue-up. This took longer than I had expected, but I kept moving at a good pace hoping I would complete it before the glue started to set-up.

I used a waterproof glue (Titebond III) but the setup time is quick so you need to work fast with this many panels to assembly in one shot. The divider also had to be positioned and glued at this point since this wouldn’t be possible after the carcase was assembled. The shelf and sliding tray rails I’ll add later.

Assembled Carcase Drying

Of course I felt that I could use about 10 more clamps to get the joints nice and tight but I made do with what I had. I did purchase a new band clamp and pipe clamp for this job. I could probably use about 2 more band clamps for this assembly.

The glue-up is complete and drying. Next I’ll add the oak trim to the bottom, but before I do that I need to build a miter sled for the table saw so I can cut some perfect 45 degree miters. Stay tuned ……

Enough of the designing and tinkering in Sketch-Up it’s time to get building the tack trunk if I’m going to have it done by sometime around Chelsea’s birthday!

Tack Trunk Carcase

Yesterday I started the actual construction of the plywood carcase.  The carcase is made from 3/4″ oak plywood. I had a real hard time trying to find some good quality plywood to use. The stuff you can get at the local home goods stores is really cheap with voids and very thin veneer. I even went and talked to one of the local cabinet shops in the area to see where they purchase cabinet grade plywood around here and the answer is they don’t.  They end up ordering it from a supplier and even then the quality isn’t what it used to be. I did find some oak plywood at a local Home Depot that was fairly good, but I ended up digging through a pile of 15 sheets (by myself)  before finding two that were acceptable to me.

By the end of my time in the workshop yesterday I had rough cut the pieces for the carcase from one of the 4x8 sheets of plywood into managable sizes and ripped them to the correct width.  Today after work I cut the individual pieces of the carcase to thier correct dimensions, and using the tablesaw cut the rabbits in the bottom, front, and back pieces. I also cut the dado for the sliding tray support.

Inside of the tack trunk carcase

I still have the stopped dado to cut in the front and back pieces for the shelf support and also the stopped dado for the dividing panel in the carcase then it will be ready for glue up.

Did I mention that I am also creating a set of plans for the tack trunk?  I will have them available for a nominal fee after I complete the build. If you want to order yours now, just send an email to TheKraftsman@kyserikekraftsman.com.

Update 07/25/2010: The plans are now available in the download store.

Main Divider - Click to enlarge

A few recent additions to the tack trunk design:

• A main divider in the middle of the trunk.
• A removable shelf to split the left compartment into an upper and lower.
• A sliding/removable tray.
• Trim added to the upper part of the trunk.

I added a divider to split the trunk into two sides. The right hand side will be the largest compartment in the trunk.

In the left hand compartment I added a removable shelf that extends to the length and width of the compartment. Items that are not needed often can be stored in the lower compartment. The shelf also acts as a base for the grooming tote.

Left Hand Shelf - Click to enlarge

The sliding tray is about 5 inches deep and can either be moved to the left hand side of the trunk or removed to gain access to the area under the tray.  The grooming tote may need to also be removed in order to slide the tray completely to the left hand side.

The trim was added to the top portion of the trunk because I needed to be able to mount the piano hinge securely for the lid. I think this trim will also be used to secure the locking hasp.

Next I’ll add the hasp, handles, and casters to the sketchup model. Then I think it will be time to start building !

I think I’ll also find a way to increase the width of the bandage/wrap holder. Chelsea was a little concerned that the 3 inch width would be too narrow.

Don’t forget to check back for updates !

The tack trunk with the sliding tray added - Click to enlarge

Trunk with tray, tote and wrap holder - click to enlarge

Grooming Tote

I’ve designed a grooming tote that will be included with the tack trunk. The tote will fit in one of the compartments of the tack trunk and not interfere with the wrap holder in the lid.

The tote is 15 inches long, 10 inches wide, and 12 inches tall at the highest point. The short sides are 6 inches high.

I split the tote into 5 compartments. 2 large compartments on one side and 3 smaller compartments on the other side.

Click on the thumbnail image on the right for a larger view.

Does this design look adequate ?

Wrap/Bandage Holder

I’m creating a removable wrap and bandage holder for the tack trunk. Here’s a view of the design along with how it will look mounted in the lid of the trunk.

The holder has two compartments. The smaller one is 6 inches wide and 3 inches deep. The larger compartment will be 12 inches long and 3 inches deep. Both compartments will be approximately 12 inches high.  Do these dimensions seem reasonable for bandage, standing wrap and polo wrap storage ?

Tack Trunk with Wrap/Bandage Holder in the lid

Here’s how the holder will look in the chest lid. The bottom will be held in place with a 1/2 inch strip of wood and this strip will also help to position the wrap holder correctly. The handle will be secured to the lid top using two broom handle hanger supports.

I had to increase the height of the lid to 5 inches in order to contain the wrap/bandage holder. I think this height will still work.